In this section we will review Terminal Tackle: Hooks, Lines, Weights, Spinners, Bobbers (Floats) and Swivels. How they are used and properly Rigged for a successful set-up.

Fishing Hooks:

As a rule, use the smallest hook possible. Small hooks allows the live-bait presentation to look natural. Small hooks also penetrate quicker than larger hooks upon the fish strike. Always test your hook for sharpness. Sharp hook points will catch more fish than dull hooks. To test your hook simply draw the hook point across your fingernail, a sharp hook will leave a light scratch and digs in to your nail. A dull hook will skate across your nail with out digging in. When necessary touch up the hook point by using a hook file or sharpening stone, simply draw the hook sharpener against the point of your hook a few times (parallel to the shank) on the bottom, and then take a couple of quick strokes to each side of the hook

Don’t be misled that new hooks out of the box are always sharp especially the cheap hooks that are made of soft poor quality steel. Even high quality hooks will dull over time and use by hitting rocks and debris in the water.

Another option is to use chemically sharpened hooks. Many quality hook manufactures offer a line of hooks that are made of higher grade steel and then dipped in a chemical bath which gives the hook a super sharp hook point. These hooks can be expensive compared to conventional hooks, but the advantage is a super sharp hook right out of the package. The bottom line is always use a sharp hook.

Offset/Worm
Worm hooks are used for fishing soft plastic's lures. The front bend on a worm hook is used to lock lures such as worms and lizards from moving down the shank by simply inserting the hook point into the head of the lure down about a 1/4 inch. Bring the hook point out of the lure, and pull the shaft of the hook through until the eye is at the head, turn the hook straight and insert the hook point into the body, adjust the eye so it is just inside the lure. Used on Texas and Carolina Rigs.

Fishing Lines:

1. The initial fishing lines were monofilament and they are still used for the majority of fishing.  Mono has many positive attributes: it is relatively inexpensive, most mono line has good abrasion resistance and it is relatively difficult to see in the water.  It also has some negative attributes: it has a stretch of 25-27 percent which means when setting the hook you have to account for line stretch as well as the “bow” in the line, it does not float well which will drag your float in the water, some mono lines will suffer from abrasions so check it often, line strength compared to line diameter limits how much line can be put on your reel, line deteriorates over time and exposure to sun and should be changed often (some people change more than every year) and some mono line has problems on spinning reels due to “memory”.

2. Fluorocarbon lines have come out more recently and, when used properly have some positive attributes: it is nearly invisible to fish in the water; it sinks quickly allowing your lure to get down to where the fish are, and it has good abrasion resistance.  It also has some negative attributes: it sinks too quickly to use as the main line with floats (it drags the float unnaturally), it has a very hard surface which can cut through mono if you tie a blood knot (it will also cut into itself if you are not careful), it becomes brittle at the knots, it deteriorates quickly if exposed to sunlight, it is stiff and not appropriate for spinning reels and it is relatively expensive.

3. Braided lines have become increasingly popular and, although somewhat expensive they have some excellent attributes: braid floats well so it is good for fishing floats, it has virtually no stretch so you can set the hook quickly, it is small in diameter and limp so it casts further and it does not need to be replaced as often.  There are also some negative attributes: it is difficult to tie properly, it slips on your reel if not put on correctly, it must be tightly spooled or it will “cut” into itself, it sometimes absorbs too much water and will freeze to the spool in cold weather and because it does not stretch, you can break your rod if you set the hook too hard on a snag.  There have been many improvements to braided line such as coatings to prevent freezing and even some stretch ability but the above still stands.

Fishing Weights (Sinkers):

Fishing weights (sinkers) are made from two basic materials lead and steel. The two types of sinkers are: attached on the line by pinching, twisted on using rubber insert or tied directly to your line (Bottom Bouncers / Bead Chain Sinkers). The other is sliding: which allows the fishing line to slide or pass through the weight from a hole or a eyelet. The same principle applies in using sinkers for your set-up use the lightest possible sinker in order to detect fish strikes.

Swivels:

Swivels are a simple but yet important part on your fishing gear when it comes to rigging. The swivel keeps your line from twisting, acts as a weight stop on your line along with spreading bottom rigs ( 3-way swivel) for proper presentations. Swivels are also used as a component on a leader to attach your line.   

Spinners:

The main fish attracting component of a spinner is the blade. The type of blade and shape will determine the depth and sound (the thump) of a spinner upon retrieve. All blades have a different amount of resistance as it travels through the water. A broad blade such as the Colorado will rotate at a greater outward angle from the wire shaft producing a lift and thump compared to a narrow willow blade which will run tighter to the shaft and spin faster producing less sound.

Fishing Bobbers (Floats):

1. Round Attached 2. Lighted Slip 3. Weighted Spring Attached 4. Glow Slip 5. Slip 
6. Antenna Slip 7. Shy/Light Bite Slip 8. Waggler Slip 9. Large Bait Slip

Common Basic Rigging:

Idealy one would want to use the simplest and lightest set up for the type of fishing they tend to do, the lighter the rigging the better chance you have of attracting a fish rather than spooking it with needlessly heavy tackle. Here are some common rigging examples that can be modified to fit your specific fishing conditions.

The Texas rig is adaptable to all types of soft plastics from worms to lizards and grubs that can be fished in extremely dense vegetation and brush.

Split Shot Rig 
This is about as basic as you can get on a rig. The nice thing is, you don't have to retie any knots to change the sinker position on the line; just pinch it on and off.

Stream Rig
The stream rig also known as a drift rig are used commonly by steelhead, salmon and walleye anglers in certain situations, such as in small streams with light current or when drift fishing in relatively shallow water.   

Drop Shot Rig
The drop-shot rig is a finesse technique that has been made popular by the bass fishing community, walleye and panfish anglers as well are now using the drop shot with many successes.

Bottom Bouncer
The bottom walker is an effective rigging tool while trolling or drifting presenting the lure/bait rig above snag laced bottom of small rocks, logs, over mud/sand flats, or open basins. A weighted wire feeler arm minimizes hang-ups while riding upright across underwater structure deflecting snags.

Carolina Rig
The Carolina rig is a popular and effective way to rig for bass. Just about any soft plastic can be used when Carolina rigging.

Three Way Rig
The three way rig receives its name from the main swivel used on the rig. It is also recognized as the wolf river rig.

Sliding Sinker Bottom Rig
The sliding sinker bottom rig is the most popular and versatile rig for live bait fishing. Dependent on what part of the country your from and the species of fish you’re targeting it has many names the most common is the trade name Lindy Rig.

Sliding Slip Bobber Rig
The slip bobber can be fished at any depth, it is designed to move (slide) up and down the line and will not interfere with casting or landing a fish.